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Among the displeased, rival couturier Paul Poiret is said to have sniped at Chanel in the street, What are you in mourning for, Mademoiselle? The equally scissor-tongued designer is said to have retorted: For you, dear Monsieur. Frock and awe To put it in context, three decades earlier, John Singer Sargent's portrait of Madame Gautreau, better known as Madame X, in a black dress had provoked outrage in Paris

In an interview with Entertainment Weekly, the actor Elizabeth Debicki who will take over the role of Diana from Emma Corrin highlighted the Stambolian dress as key to understanding Dianas character