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Here's proof ours doesn't have to be: Brand Price Upper Resoleable Bespoky $96 Suede leather Yes, hand-stitched welt Vivobarefoot Ra IV Oxford $200-$220 Full-grain leather No Lems Bradley $150-$160 Nubuck No Why Suede, Not Buffalo/Split Leather We could use cheaper split leather like some competitors do, but Suede ages better and feels better against the foot, so that is what we use